Sweep, dust and vacuum your floors. If using a vacuum, attach the proper hard floor adapter to avoid scratching the finish of your wood.
Use the right cloth. Microfiber is best. Avoid steel wool, scouring powders, or abrasive cleaners, and avoid using a buffing machine.
Use the right cleaner. Choosing the proper cleaning solution depends on the finish of your hardwood (surface finish or penetrating finish), not so much the wood itself. Oil-based, wax, polish or strong ammoniated products can dull your floor's finish.
Wipe up spilled water immediately. Dry any standing water as soon as possible. Even surface-finished hardwood can suffer water damage.
Don't mop in the traditional sense of soaking your floors with lots of water. Excess water can seep into the wood fibers and cause swelling and warping.
Use entry mats and floor protectors. Entry mats in high-traffic areas and floor protectors underneath heavy furniture increase the lifespan of your floor.
Rearrange your furniture periodically. Let your flooring share the load evenly by redirecting high traffic each time you move your furniture around.
Tip: if you drop gum or candle wax onto your floor, harden it first by rubbing it with an ice cube, then scrape it off with a plastic card.
Care Guide: Ceramic, Porcelain, or Natural Stone Tile
Sweep or vacuum first. Before using any cleaning solutions, remove dirt and debris with a soft-bristled broom or a vacuum with a hard-surface attachment to avoid scratching glazed tile.
Glazed tile cleaning. Use an all-purpose (non-oil-based) household cleaner, or water with a mild detergent. The cleaning solution needs to be pH-neutral or it will break down the material.
Unglazed tile cleaning. Unglazed tile is more porous, so be gentler when cleaning it. A hot water and white vinegar mixture is recommended — chemical-free and safe if ingested by kids or pets.
Use cotton, microfiber, or chamois-style cloths. Avoid sponges or sponge mops, which push dirt and grime into grout joints.
Grout joint cleaning tip. Mix baking soda and water into a paste, rub it onto dirty grout joints, let it sit overnight, then scrub with a stiff nylon brush.
Reseal your floors every 1–2 years to keep them stain-resistant. If water doesn't bead on the grout lines, it's time to reseal.
Protection. Use mats in high-traffic areas and floor protectors underneath furniture.
Care Guide: Resilient Vinyl
Immediately following installation, keep foot traffic to a minimum.
Clean daily by dust mopping or sweeping. Good entry mats cut down on dirt and oil tracked in from outside.
Clean spills immediately. Vinyl is waterproof, but a standing spill increases the chance of staining.
Use protective mats (without rubber or latex backing) at high-traffic areas and pivot joints — non-pigmented floor protectors at least an inch wide are recommended.
Avoid direct sunlight. Lower blinds during bright times of day; sunlight can cause discoloration and excessive temperatures can cause the vinyl to expand.
Do not use vinegar, soap or detergents — they can dull the floor's finish. Use an approved resilient vinyl cleaning solution instead.
Care Guide: Carpet
Install the right pad, especially on stairs. Check your carpet's warranty recommendations for pad options.
Don't track dirt inside. Good walk-off mats keep dirt, grit, soil and asphalt off your carpet.
Vacuum regularly — the single most important maintenance tip.
Treat spills immediately. The longer spilled food or liquid sits, the more likely it is to stain.
Clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months using a hot water extraction method — ideally a professional service that follows the Carpet and Rug Institute Seal of Approval.
Minor repairs: use scissors to trim back snags or loose piles.
Spot cleaning: fully remove any detergent or solution used, so it doesn't leave a residue that attracts more dirt.